In My Library: Brian Murray Never Miss a Story Get The Post delivered directly to your inbox By clicking above you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.Seek out sushi-grade salmon or ahi tuna for this easy, delicate fish carpaccio. I buy mine at a Japanese market, where the pieces sold are exactly the right amount for one serving (about 3 ounces). You don’t have to be a sushi whiz with a knife to get the thin pieces of fish; you just gently pound each piece between lightly oiled layers of plastic. If you don’t use a light hand, you will tear the fish, so take care with your mallet or rolling pin.Time: About 30 minutes12 ounces sushi-grade salmon or ahi tuna, cut into four 3-ounce pieces1/2 teaspoon wasabi paste1 tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar1/2 teaspoon soy sauce1 tablespoon Greek yogurt1 tablespoon heavy creamShiso, cilantro sprigs or chervil sprigs for garnishFor the cucumber accompaniment:1 cup finely diced cucumber2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar1 tablespoon sesame oil1.

Lightly brush a sheet of plastic with olive oil and lay a piece of fish on it. Lightly brush surface of fish with olive oil and lay another sheet of plastic on top. Using the flat side of a meat tenderizer or a rolling pin, gently pound fish until it is very thin, 1/4 to 1/8 inch thick. Take care not to tear the fish; if it seems that it will break apart, stop when it’s a little thicker than 1/4 inch. Repeat with remaining pieces. Gently unpeel top layer of plastic and then set it back over the fish. Place in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. 2. Whisk together wasabi, vinegar, soy sauce, yogurt, and cream in a small bowl or measuring cup.3. Toss cucumber with rice vinegar and sesame oil.4. Cut each piece of flattened fish into smaller pieces and fan out on plates or on a platter. Using a pastry brush, brush each piece of fish with the wasabi sauce. Place a spoonful of the cucumber salad on each plate, garnish with shiso, cilantro or chervil and serve.Yield: Serves 4Advance preparation: The fish must be very fresh, but you can prepare the recipe through step 2 several hours before serving.

Keep fish and sauce refrigerated.Nutritional information per serving: 176 calories; 2 grams saturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 3 grams monounsaturated fat; 0 grams dietary fiber; 239 milligrams sodium (does not include salt to taste); But tuna is often frozen, too, not necessarily to make it safe, but because global consumption of sushi continues to rise. Frozen fish usually costs about half as much wholesale as fresh. And some cuts, like the prized fatty toro, are not always available fresh. Naomichi Yasuda, the owner of Sushi Yasuda, the acclaimed sushi restaurant in New York City, said he imported fresh tuna but froze it himself, selling it for $10 a piece.''American customers don't want to hear that something is out of season'' he said with a shrug. ''People want toro every day.''At the Elizabeth, N.J., warehouse of True World Foods, a manager, Ken Kawauchi, recently readied a room-size freezer to receive eight more tons of premium tuna frozen with sophisticated technology that chefs say preserves the texture and flavor of the fish.''

This product is better than fresh,'' he said. ''We start freezing it almost before it's dead.''At 76 degrees below zero, you can feel your hair follicles freeze. A 20-pound chunk of premium bluefin tuna is rock hard and cold enough to burn a blister on your finger.But all it takes is a band saw, 10 minutes and a bowl of warm water to produce deep red, dewy slices of the finest sushi money can buy, the same toro served at Manhattan sushi shrines.sushi online bestellen eindhovenSabine Marangosian, who works in Midtown Manhattan, said she ate sushi ''at least once a week.'' haru sushi delivery menu''I guess I would understand that some sushi is frozen,'' she said. sushi online bestellen eindhoven

''But I would hope that's not the case at Nobu.''But Shin Tsujimura, the sushi chef at Nobu, closer to Wall Street, said he froze his own tuna. ''Even I cannot tell the difference between fresh and frozen in a blind test,'' he said.Even Masa Takayama, whose sushi temple Masa, in the Time Warner Center, charges a minimum of $300 to worship, said he used frozen tuna when fresh is unavailable.where to buy sashimi nj Many sushi bars, in Japan and elsewhere, routinely use frozen fish when fresh is unavailable or more expensive than the market will bear.''sushi club delivery numeroIn Japan,'' Mr. Kawauchi said, ''50 percent of the sushi and sashimi is frozen. sushi zutaten online kaufenOnly my American customers are so concerned with fresh fish.''maru sushi order online

Americans have clearly overcome the initial resistance that greeted sushi when it was widely introduced nationally in the 1980's.The number of Japanese restaurants across the country has steadily increased in the past five years, according to the National Restaurant Association. And that number does not include the supermarkets, delis, cafeterias, and Costco stores where sushi can now be purchased.A.F.C. Sushi, a Los Angeles-based sushi franchiser, has more than 1,800 outlets nationwide. It already supplies the Staples Center, in Los Angeles; Florida State University, in Tallahassee, Fla.; and the United States military, which buys sushi for its commissaries. Although the company's Web site refers to ''fresh sushi,'' A.F.C. uses only frozen fish in its products.According to wholesalers like Dave Rudie, a pioneering sushi supplier in California who sells both fresh and frozen fish, more and more frozen fish is being served as sushi here.Mr. Rudie said that worldwide, some sushi products are virtually always frozen.

''Ninety percent of shrimp, of course,'' he said, The salmon roe ''and octopus, 99 percent. And you definitely want all your salmon frozen, because of parasites.''The Food and Drug Administration does not enforce the frozen-fish rule, leaving that to local health officials. The agency says sushi fish can be frozen either by the wholesaler or in the restaurant, and each party likes to believe that the other is taking care of it. ''I always assumed that the fish is frozen at some point before I get it,'' said Jack Lamb, owner of Jewel Bako in the East Village in Manhattan, ''but just for a minute, like an X-ray.''Ian MacGregor, whose wholesale business, Lobster Place, supplies the sushi hot spot Geisha, in Midtown Manhattan, said he had heard countless euphemisms for frozen fish in restaurants. ''Fresh-frozen, re-freshed, flash-chilled, take your pick,'' he said. But ''superfrozen'' fish seems to be in a category by itself. Many top sushi chefs are finding that fish frozen to about 70 degrees below zero, instead of the commercial standard, usually 10 below, can stand up to their rigorous standards.

Tuna, one of the most expensive sushi fish in the world, has been the test market for superfreezing.Freezing technology that truly preserves the quality of fresh fish is relatively new, said Eric Graham, managing director of ColdWave Systems, a global seafood shipper.Developed by the Japanese fishing industry in the 1990's to preserve the catch on long trips, superfreezing can reduce the core temperature of a 500-pound tuna to minus 70 degrees in about a day and a half. Packed in artificial snow ground from dry ice and surrounded by liquid nitrogen, that fish can be preserved with no decomposition for as long as two years.''It's an amazing product,'' said Mr. Lamb, who recently bought a medical freezer, designed to store transplant organs, to keep tuna in his restaurant's basement.But in places like Los Angeles, where the Japanese Restaurant Association of Southern California has considerable local support, frozen sushi is not a popular notion.''We try to recognize that sushi has been made with fresh fish in Japan for thousands of years,'' said Terrance Powell, chief environmental health specialist for Los Angeles County.Mr.