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Enter for the chance to win a pair of tickets to Dirkschneider at Concord Music Hall More Free Stuff » Enter for the chance to win a pair of tickets to Theatre Thursday at the Lookingglass Theatre More From the Archive »Shrimp harvested by slave labor. PCB and other chemicals in farmed salmon. Mislabled fish of all types. Eating sustainable fish—that is, seafood caught or farmed in ways that consider the long-term vitality of harvested species and the well-being of the oceans as well as the livelihoods of communities dependent on fisheries—can feel like the last frontier when it comes to conquering the local farm-to-table trend. That's because unlike organic vegetables or pasture-raised meat, figuring out what to buy can be complicated. Most chefs don't directly visit fisheries, and exporting fish to the Midwest is costly. What's a responsible fish eater to do? These local restaurants and fish shops promise to take the guesswork out of buying seafood. �Carnivore1042 Pleasant St., Oak Park708-660-1100Customers won't see much of the fish they're used to buying at this boutique meat and fish grocer in Oak Park.

The store sells only sustainable seafood, including carp from the Great Lakes, tiny invasive lionfish from the Atlantic and swordfish caught off the Florida coast, says co-owner Erik Williams, who opened the business last year and avoids imported shrimp (“no texture”) and most marlin (high levels of mercury). The assortment is constantly changing based on new sustainability research. Customers have said they want this sort of fish, Williams said. “They have a lot of places to buy a piece of cod.”�Kinmont 419 W. Superior St.312-915-0011Customers are willing to pay extra for fish with a smaller environmental footprint (as it were), says Kinmont chef Aaron Cuschieri. During the colder months, the restaurant, opened last year by Element Collective (Nellcote, Old Town Social), offers lobster and Great Lakes perch. Getting non-frozen fish from the coasts is complicated, requiring daily calls to make sure it's flown in overnight, Cuschieri said. He also serves salmon from Skuna Bay, a sustainable farm off the coast of Vancouver Island.

“It's about changing the perception of what farm-raised is; it's not always about staying away from a specific product,” he said. Servers are trained to dispel myths about farm-raised salmon, he added.� Shaw's Crab House 21 E. Hubbard St.312-527-2722Also in Schaumburg The seafood restaurant has worked with the Shedd Aquarium for a decade to help customers make sustainable fish choices. Still, most diners expect to see Shaw's famous haddock and salmon dishes on the menu year-round even if it's frozen or farmed, says Steve LaHaie, senior vice president of the Shaw's Crab House division at Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises. King crab and yellow lake perch are two of the restaurants' most sustainable offerings. For many customers, there's still a learning curve when it comes to understanding how sustainable fish affects their dining experience. “Most people think (sustainability) has to do (only) with whether the fish is healthy for them,” LaHaie said. Wixter Market 2110 W. Division St.312-248-2800This six-month-old shop in Ukrainian Village offers sustainable, flash-frozen seafood including Kona Kampachi, a sashimi-grade yellowtail that's bred in deep waters off the coast of Kona, Hawaii, along with lobster tails from Tristan da Cunha, a remote island in the south Atlantic.

Freezing fish almost immediately at its source allows it to retain its freshness while providing more choices to buy from more ethical fisheries, said owner Matt Wixter, former executive at a Norwegian fish wholesaler. “The difference in product is night and day,” he said. Sink Swim3213 W. Armitage Ave.773-486-7465Sustainable fish is a focus at this year-old cocktail bar-meets-seafood joint, which is operated by the team behind nearby Scofflaw. Chef Matt Danko checks the Seafood Watch website of California's Monterey Bay Aquarium to check sustainability ratings for a particular fish. Dishes that have made the cut: whole Gulf shrimp with white barbecue sauce and Atlantic cod. Shedd Aquarium's Right Bite programFor many Chicago chefs, figuring out what to put on the plate means working with the Shedd Aquarium's Right Bite program, which educates consumers about sustainable seafood and offers a wallet guide that lists fish to purchase and avoid. Recently the aquarium has focused on introducing Great Lakes fish including rainbow smelt, walleye and lake trout to consumers, said Aislinn Gauchay, the Shedd's Great Lakes and sustainability assistant director.