Has there ever been a more idiosyncratic type of food as sushi? Every itamae, or sushi chef, starts with the same basic tools (fish, rice, vinegar, wasabi), but the test of a real sushi star is how they transform those elements into something greater than their parts suggest. It’s a process similar to winemaking in that the best of the best know how to choose the highest quality ingredients and then use their skills to present those ingredients as works of art. When people from anywhere outside of LA tell me how good their city’s sushi is, I smile and politely nod my head. The truth is, you can get sushi pretty much anywhere these days (grocery store, gas station, Nebraska) but that doesn’t make it good. You know what makes sushi good? In Los Angeles, we’re lucky enough to have a full stable of world-class itamae working all over the city. They may not seem like superheroes, but after one omakase, you’re sure to believe in their magical powers. In no particular order, these are the 8 Los Angeles sushi masters:

Name: Hiroyuki UrasawaRestaurant: UrasawaClaim to Fame: Luxury Urasawa is one of the most expensive restaurants in the United States, with checks reaching well over $1,000 for a party of two. That may seem extravagant to some, but to those seeking the ultimate sushi experience, it would be hard to do better. This the type of place that Jiro dreams of and with the best fish flown in daily from around the world, the price is almost justified. Toro, uni, wagyu beef, gold leaf — it’s all here. Perhaps Urasawa means “baller” in Japanese? 218 N Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310-247-8939 Name: Keizo SekiRestaurant: Sushi ZoClaim to Fame: Speed Got 45 minutes and $150? Zo will hook you up. Another player in LA’s formidable collection of high-priced omakase-only spots, Keizo-san is known for serving tiny portions of fish on top of rice that mimics the body’s internal temperature. With a new location downtown, you now have twice the opportunity to wonder if you’re really getting your money’s worth before ultimately deciding that you want to come back tomorrow. 

9824 National Boulevard, Los Angeles, 310-842-3977 and 334 South Main Street, Los Angeles, 213-935-8409 Name: Hiroyuki NarukeRestaurant: QClaim to Fame: Edomae sushi (AKA Tokyo-style) Omakase-only Q is the latest entrant in LA’s high-end sushi game and Naruke was imported directly from Japan by an LA law firm with an office in Tokyo. As the story goes, the partners liked Naruke’s food so much, they convinced him to relocate to LA (with the help of piles of cash, I assume). sushi drift tires ebay Name: Ken NambaRestaurant: KirikoClaim to Fame: House-made smoked salmon wrapped around mango The Little Osaka neighborhood on Sawtelle in West LA is known for being a Japanese wonderland (although it’s become more pan-Asian recently). yo sushi menu kingstonKiriko is one of Sawtelle’s OGs, a small spot serving up one of the best lunch specials in town. sushi grade fish ft lauderdale

For $40, you get an incredible omakase from Namba, including that luscious smoked salmon. It’s no surprise that Kiriko is one of über-critc Jonathan Gold’s favorite sushi bars.  Name: Niki NakayamaRestaurant: n/nakaClaim to Fame: Lady power It’s not really fair to say that Niki’s inclusion here is because she’s a female itamae working in a field dominated by men. Her sashimi is on par with the very finest in LA county. ichiban sushi menu pensacolaHer restaurant, n/naka, serves traditional multi-course kaiseki meals, so don’t go expecting to find a big glass case full of fish. jiro dreams of sushi seattleInstead, save a few weeks’ salary and head in for a revelatory dinner. jiro dreams of sushi boring

When you get to the shokuji one course, you’ll know exactly why Nakayama made the list.  Name: Yoya TakahashiRestaurant: HamasakuClaim to Fame: Personality Yoya is awesome. If you’ve ever sat at his bar, you know that. He shops for the best fish from all over the world every day and, in his spare time, gets down to The Grateful Dead. Allow him to do his thing and you’ll be sure to wind up with tiny firefly squid with a creamy miso or a king crab leg cracked open in front of you, covered in butter, and seared with a blowtorch. sushi fisch kaufen bonnHamasaku gets more credit as an entertainment industry power-lunch spot, but Yoya’s incredible knowledge and personality combine to form a rockstar itamae who holds his own with LA’s best.  Name: Osamu FujitaRestaurant: Nozawa BarClaim to Fame: Back-room secrets Chef Nozawa has been revered in Los Angeles for years, but when his eponymous restaurant in the Valley closed down a few years back, he partnered in a chain concept called Sugarfish that has since taken over LA.

There’s seemingly a Sugarfish for every neighborhood these days, but in the back of Sugarfish Beverly Hills, you’ll find Nozawa Bar, a tribute to the original with Chef Fujita at the helm. It’s yet another omakase-only spot with only ten seats and one seating per night (two on Saturday). A recent meal there started with jellyfish and continued to impress all the way through the umeboshi palate cleanser.  Name: Shigeru KudoRestaurant: ShibuchoClaim to Fame: Stealth There’s a good chance that you would never find yourself near Shibucho’s Rampart Village location if you weren’t there specifically for sushi. It gets a little dicey there late at night, but once you’re inside, you’re treated to some of the best traditional sushi on the Eastside. Don’t expect California rolls here, but do bring your finest bottle of vino. Kudo is a major wine lover and if you’re willing to share, he might be, too. Word is, his cellar contains some incredible bottles.  Check out these sushi stories on Food Republic: