After 30 years, Akai Hana continues to write the book on sushi in Columbus. My sushi-crazy son and I have visited Akai Hana many times over the years. So I admit to a bit of bias when I say that Akai Hana is my happy place. And judging from the cheerful crowds who pack the place nightly, it’s a happy place for a lot of people. This is so for many reasons—the kindly service, the pretty blonde-wood dining room, the fact that the sushi chefs will remember your name and what you like—but mostly because of the very good sushi. It must be said (given that we are about 500 miles from the nearest ocean) that no Columbus sushi bar regularly obtains raw fish in that just-caught, sparkling condition that can make sushi magical, a la “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.” Akai Hana’s sushi may not be truly magical, but when it comes to raw fish and other things that make up standard sushi-bar fare, no one in Columbus does it better. All the basic sashimi, nigiri sushi and rolls are here, along with the requisite selection of rolls invented in America like “Dragon” or “Buckeye.”

I am old-school when it comes to sushi—to me, the classics are best. And so a simple piece of buttery hamachi (yellowtail) on a thumb of sweetened, vinegared rice is as good as it gets. Or for rolls, tuna or chopped hamachi made fragrant with green bits of scallion (negi-hamachi) are wonderful. This is not to denigrate the 100 or so other things the sushi chefs do well, from the comforting California roll to the sweet piece of barbecued eel called unagi. Even if you sit at the sushi bar you will be handed the substantial book that is Akai Hana’s menu, which includes much more than just sushi, such as teriyaki, donburi (a rice bowl with various toppings), noodle dishes and even Korean food, if you are so inclined. In addition to visits with my son over the past few years, I ate here three times recently in service to the community (this reviewer gig is tough) but couldn’t cover more than one-fifth of the huge menu. Aside from sushi, here are some recommendations and a few things to avoid.

I like the vegetable tempura, usually a slice of lotus root, a perfumy shisho leaf and pieces of yam, broccoli, onion and zucchini. The veggies are done to an almost greaseless turn, still crisp. Vegetable and shrimp tempura are served as appetizers ($6 and $9.50) or combined as an entrée ($12.50) with miso soup (bland, but serviceable), rice and that ubiquitous little cup of iceberg with sweet-salty sesame dressing (awful, skip it). jiro dreams of sushi lifehackerVegetable lovers will be pleased with a range of small-plate options, including the standard edamame ($5), three tofu preparations, a nice assortment of pickled vegetables or oshinko ($5.25) and my favorite, yaki nasu. sushi grade fish broward countyThese hot sautéed chunks of eggplant are prepared in a gingery ponzu sauce and topped with shaved bonito—the dried fish shavings squirm about like tiny angry worms when in contact with the hot eggplant, which is hilarious fun for me and very little kids ($6.75).sushi garden menu steinbach

Entrees of note include chicken, salmon and mixed seafood (shrimp, scallops, mussels and squid; $20.75) in a sweet and viscous teriyaki sauce. Or better yet, the various broth-based combinations like suki yaki (beef and vegetables, $23.95, enough for two) and yose nabe, a nice collection of fish and seafood in a broth with noodles and veggies ($25.95, also enough for two). sushi online bestellen deutschlandweitTraditional Japanese katsu are cutlets of chicken, pork or shrimp breaded with panko and fried crisp ($17.50–$19.95). sushi maki menu brickellIt is simple food, but tasty and executed well. genki sushi menu chinoA too-sweet tonkatsu sauce that comes with katsu is not helpful, but a squeeze of lemon is nice.

To me, the best entrees are the noodle dishes. Tempura udon (wheat) or soba (buckwheat, and more interesting) in broth topped with shrimp tempura is very well done, as is the vegetable tempura version. Ramen here is not as memorable as the ramen-specific places in town—it’s a little bland—but sansai udon or soba topped with spinach is a mild but lovely dish of food (noodle dishes are $11.95; $14.95 with seafood). One more interesting choice is una ju donburi, or rice topped with slices of barbecued eel ($21). One of the best values at Akai Hana, and a way to try several different things, is to order the lunch or dinner boxes, which combine various items like sushi, salads, tempura, teriyaki, katsu and the like. They range from $17.50 to a huge, weekend-only special at $26.50. Boxes are cheaper at lunch. There is a short list of Korean standards like bibimbap ($17.95) and the marinated grilled beef called bulgogi ($18.50). The last pages of the menu are in Japanese. I was told that it largely mimics the English menu but isn’t exactly the same.

Finally, I would be remiss if didn’t comment on the service. Yes, servers and sushi chefs are efficient, helpful and all that, but the best description of the folks who work at Akai Hana (many of whom have been there for years) is that they are just plain nice. It’s no happy accident, then, that we keep going back.Omakase, meaning "chef's choice" or "from the heart," is the new splurge meal in NYC. Like a tasting menu, an omakase meal puts the diner into the chef's hands, as they craft a series of small fish-centric courses (sometimes up to 20). First popularized by early adopters like Kurumazushi and later by Sushi Yasuda, the traditional Tokyo-inspired sushi tasting menu is hotter than ever in NYC. Case in point: newcomer Sushi Nakazawa (the Jiro disciple-led sushi restaurant famed for its Edomae omakase) was this year's Top Newcomer in our 2015 NYC Restaurants Survey. The most recent entry is the Upper East Side's Kappo Masa, a spin-off of the Columbus Circle spot recently opened adjacent to the Gagosian Gallery (although their omakase menu is yet to launch).

Whether you're looking for a traditional Edomae experience, a high-quality omakase at a low price or a nontraditional splurge, check out our guide to some of NYC's must-try sushi experiences below.View as   of  Ultimate Edomae Sushi Nakazawa - Perhaps the trickiest table to snag in NYC right now is chef Daisuke Nakazawa's $150 omakase, which is made in the Edomae style (a simple style that originated in Tokyo as street food). The cozy West Village sushi den offers this 20-course, nigiri-only experience that boasts Tokyo-level sushi without pretense. Nakazawa and his chefs are conversational and lively, which helps the spot avoid stuffiness. Highlights include hay-smoked coho; scallop with yuzu, pepper and sake sauce; uni with smoked truffle salt (one of the more American-inspired pieces); and tamago, aka the egg sushi, which Nakazawa famously agonized over in Jiro Dreams of Sushi. Ichimura at Brushstroke - Adjacent to David Bouley's Brushstroke, you'll find this small sushi counter where traditional Edomae-style omakase is prepared by chef Eiji Ichimura.

With prices starting at $180, the relatively hushed experience is probably the closest you'll find to Tokyo in all of NYC. The meal begins with a starter course of otsumami (snacks), followed by sashimi, then the chawanmushi as an intermezzo, then 13-15 pieces of sushi. Offerings vary daily due to freshness and availability, but the chawanmushi will always be a standout, and many varieties of aged fish (aging can improve the texture and flavor) are also highlights.Great to Be a Regular15 East - A favorite of restaurant-industry folk and serious sushi lovers alike, the lively, engaging personality of shokunin Masato Shimizu makes it fun to be a regular at this Union Square sushi spot. Shimizu is known for his high level of interaction with guests and has been known to share photos of the fish with diners as well as bring out a live octopus before slow-poaching it. But what 15 East has over just about every other omakase out there is the sheer variety of items that might be served to you on any given night.

Starting at $140 and up, the seven-course menu incorporates traditional kaiseki-style cooked items into the omakase.Ushiwakamaru - This cozy, Tokyo-style Greenwich Village sushi counter features a slightly more affordable omakase (from $70-$100) than some of its competitors, but the ambiance is no-frills and solely about the sushi. The omakase here is fairly traditional (featuring pieces like ikura, uni, various tuna) and is ideal for the omakase purist. Many customers are repeat customers who make Ushiwakamaru their go-to for affordable, high-quality sushi. ​Sushi Yasuda - Sushi Yasuda is something of an omakase OG in NYC, as it's been serving the meal since 1999. The founding chef, Naomichi Yasuda, returned to Japan in 2011, and since he left, the list of interesting daily specials has dwindled. Still, for many it's still a reliable spot for unique omakase that doesn't follow the traditional styles. For one thing the sushi is smaller, jewel-shaped and there's a greater emphasis on rice.

The omakase here is more collaborative and its length and subsequent price are up to the diner (the average range is from $80-$150). Also note: there is a no-tipping policy here; the staff are compensated with higher wages than most restaurant workers, and the cost of the tip is worked into the menu's prices. UnconventionalSoto - Atlanta import Sotohiru Kosugi's $135 omakase is served in a modern, sleek and relatively formal environment. Kosugi is a "no BS" type of shokunin (craftsman or artisan) who isn't afraid to boot you out of one of the coveted counter seats if you make too many ridiculous requests. The West Village sushi spot offers various types of omakase, including one that includes kaiseki-style hot dishes as well.​Sushi of Gari - This sushi institution from Masatosi "Gari" Sugio has now expanded to multiple locations, but the Gari's Choice omakase menu on the UES remains the ultimate experience. The omakase is not a set menu, so they will keep bringing you sushi until you raise the white flag.

Therefore, prices can vary wildly but start at around $150. The omakase pieces here are nontraditional and rope in elements of other famous Japanese dishes like miso-marinated cod, tuna with tofu sauce and tempura sea eel.Sushi Seki - Chef Zhong Zhen Shi aka "Chef Seki" was trained by Gari, and like its predecessor, the sushi experience at this 12-year-old UES spot is non-traditional in style but is open much later, until 3AM (making it popular with the late-night chef crowd). Recently Seki expanded downtown to Chelsea offering two more reasonably priced omakase options: $80 for sushi and $100 for sushi and sashimi. Bargain HunterSushi Dojo - 30 Under 30 NYC honoree David Bouhadana is offering one of the most insane omakase deals in town — 10 pieces of high-quality sushi for the bargain-basement price of $45. The menu follows the traditional procession and offers a range of tunas, unis and whitefish with a variety of preparations. But the vibe of this omakase is decidedly downtown with its snug quarters, disco soundtrack and laid-back atmosphere. 

Omakase for a new generation? Tanoshi - Another bargain spot, the omakase at this hole-in-the-wall UES sushi spot was once a hidden gem, offering 10-15 pieces of sushi for about $50 (depending on market price). Chef Toshio's (a Morimoto alum) style of sushi is classic and minimalist, using few ingredients. The meal begins with traditional appetizers and then moves on to various nigiri that may include items like hamachi yuzu, bigeye tuna and marinated salmon roe. But don't expect formal service or delicate touches — this spot is down and dirty with a rickety ambiance to match — but that doesn't mean the quality of sushi you'll receive isn't first rate. Hushed and IntimateKurumazushi - One of the original NYC omakase destinations, this Midtown spot first set up shop in 1977 and is still one of the most expensive omakases in town, starting at $300 (depending on market prices). Chef Toshihiro Uezu's menu is fairly traditional and served in a quiet, hushed setting that's akin to many you would find in Tokyo. ​

Sushi Ko - This Lower East Side, 10-seat omakase-only experience is also part of the unconventional "Downtown" sushi genre that Sushi Dojo belongs to, but the experience is much more hushed. Starting at around $100, the omakase is served to you by shokunin John Daley, a white guy with tattoos and a blowtorch who mixes traditional nigiri with uni pasta and various tartares. The tasting menu here features classic flavors but is is non-traditional in that a variety of other items besides sushi are served.​Sushi Zen - Chef Toshio Suzuki is one of the most accomplished sushi chefs in NYC. He began his career at age 19 studying Edo sushi in Japan and later in his career trained chefs like Morimoto and even claims to have invented the California roll. This quiet Theater District restaurant offers a range of omakase, including a $68 sushi and sashimi option. But for the full experience, the chef's omakase will run you about $100 a person.Join the conversationFollow ZagatYou’re missing outThe Zagat app helps you find the best places, faster.